Pateh Doozi

Pateh Doozi is a traditional form of embroidery practiced by women in Kerman, done on a thick woolen fabric known as "Areez." Skilled women in Kerman create intricate designs using colorful threads and needles, stitching them onto the woolen fabric or Areez based on their imaginative patterns. Most Pateh embroiderers are homemakers who take up this craft as a hobby and sometimes sell their creations. Like other arts and crafts, Pateh Doozi is deeply rooted in various artistic traditions and is closely related to carpet weaving. The designs, patterns, and colors of Pateh embroidery often resemble those found in carpet weaving, and they sometimes blend together. Today, Pateh Doozi has been recognized as a national heritage and is considered one of the 40 important traditional embroidery crafts in Iran.

Etymology of Pateh Embroidery

The word "Pateh" actually means wool and fluff. In Kerman, it is pronounced with emphasis on the "t." Pateh Doozi is essentially a type of floral and vine embroidery done by hand on woolen fabrics and shawls. It is defined as a form of Iranian needlework that involves stitching colorful woolen threads onto Areez or shawls, creating beautiful designs such as vines, cypress trees, and other motifs. It's important to note that the patterns on the Areez are shaped by the embroiderer's imagination, reflecting the thoughts and emotions of the women and girls who stitch them during moments of joy and sorrow.

Use of Colorful Threads of Pateh Doozi 

The colorful threads used for embroidery are typically made of wool and are delicate and vibrant. The underlying fabric is also made of wool and fluff, known as Areez. The threads come in various colors, including burgundy, black, green, yellow, orange, red, and blue. Different patterns, including various floral designs and geometric shapes, are employed.

Applications of Pateh Doozi

Pateh Doozi has many applications, including:

•  Tablecloths
•  Prayer rugs
•  Quran covers
•  Prayer mats
•  Curtains
•  Cushions
•  Coasters
•  Decorative trays
•  Candy dishes

One of the most beautiful and exquisite examples of Pateh Doozi can be found on the tomb of Shah Nematollah Vali in Mahan, which is considered one of the finest pieces available. The background of this Pateh is cream-colored, adorned with delicately stitched floral designs in various colorful threads. Pateh Doozi is primarily practiced in Kerman, Zarand, Rafsanjan, and Sirjan.

History of Pateh Doozi

The exact date of the invention of this art is unfortunately not clearly documented, but it is known to have been quite popular during the Safavid dynasty. The oldest existing example dates back to 1285 AH (Islamic calendar). This piece is considered a needlework that features intricate designs made with colorful silk threads on a cream-colored wool fabric, belonging to the 12th century AH. The border of this piece is decorated with Pateh embroidery featuring a motif of reconciliation and conflict. Another notable piece is the cover of Shah Nematollah Vali's tomb, created by the artisan Farajollah Kermani, dating back to 1280 AH.

Pateh Designs

The designs in Pateh embroidery often draw from ancient Iranian motifs, including the "Boteh Jagh" (a floral motif) or the "Tree of Life."

Preparation Process if Pateh Doozi

Initially, the Areez is cut to the required dimensions, and then it is handed over to the designer. Nowadays, designers often create and cut the Areez themselves, producing various designs in different sizes and colors. Women usually select and purchase pre-designed Areez rather than requesting custom designs. During the design phase, the pattern is first drawn on tracing paper. Then, the outline is punctured with a needle, and the design is transferred onto the Areez, with chalk powder or charcoal sprinkled over it. This process is known as "Garteh Zani." If the fabric is dark, chalk is used; if it is light, charcoal is used to achieve the necessary contrast. The marked points are then outlined with a pen and ink on the fabric. Choosing the thread and color is the next step, with brighter colors gaining popularity in recent years.

Since Pateh designs are intricate and not geometric, bright colors may not enhance the beauty of the product; darker colors make the motifs more coherent and appealing. After selecting and preparing the threads, the embroiderer begins stitching the borders of the flowers and designs, a step known as "Saqeh Doozi," which defines the outline of the pattern. In the next step, the inside of the design is filled using a specific technique, referred to as "Ab Doozi."
In the third step, the embroiderer shades the inside of the designs with colored threads, a process called "Barg Doozi." This step, which involves a zigzag stitching technique, is also known as "Pateh Doozi," where "Pateh" means "bud" in the local language. After completing these steps, the Pateh is washed and pressed with a rolling device, making it ready for sale.

The most famous Pateh design is the Tree of Life, which is referred to by various names, such as Pateh Miri, Pateh Termeh, Pateh Jagh, Pateh Badami, Pateh Sarbandi, Pateh Afshari, Pateh Kurdistani, and others. Other Pateh designs include intricate floral patterns, cypress trees, animal motifs, especially birds, and geometric shapes. If you travel to Kerman, it’s worth visiting handicraft shops to explore a wide range of handmade products, especially Pateh Doozi.
With its various applications, Pateh Doozi can be considered one of the best souvenirs from Kerman for your loved ones. We hope to see you in Iran, Kerman, visiting a Pateh Doozi workshop. Looking forward to that day!