Giveh Making

Giveh is a type of lightweight, durable, handwoven summer footwear, entirely handmade and ideal for long hikes in the rugged terrains of the Zagros Mountains. Many people in the Zagros region wear it, and it can even be seen in the images found at Persepolis and the Apadana Palace. It is commonly used in various Kurdish and Lorestan areas, as well as in cities like Arak, Lorestan, Chaharmahal and Bakhtiari, Kurdistan, Kermanshah, Hamadan, Ilam, Fars, Qazvin, Zanjan, and West Azerbaijan. Every step of the giveh-making process is done by hand, typically using carpet thread or silk thread, with the sole made from fabric, leather, or rubber. The Kurds refer to it as "Klash," while the Lorestan people call it "Giveh Azhieh."

Materials Used in Giveh

The upper part of the giveh is primarily made from cotton thread and crafted by skilled artisans. Various types of needles, excluding the sewing needle, are used in its weaving. The sole, known as the "Zireh," is made from different materials:

1. Cotton Fabric: The first type uses cotton fabric, which must be made from cotton. The older the fabric, the better the quality of the giveh and its sole. This type is known for its high quality.

2. Leather: The second type is made from leather, which is of significantly 
higher quality than fabric.

3. Industrial or PU Soles: The third type uses industrial or PU soles, which are lightweight and of higher quality compared to fabric.

Importance of Using Giveh

In the rugged mountains of Zagros, having lightweight footwear is crucial for those engaged in livestock farming and agriculture, who frequently hike and navigate steep terrains. A lightweight, comfortable, durable, and cool shoe that is also affordable is vital for their daily activities. Giveh meets all these needs for the following reasons:
- The raw materials for its sole are readily available in the region.
- The tools required for making giveh are simple and easily accessible.
- It plays a significant role in job creation, especially for women.
- With increased production, its market can expand beyond local boundaries.

The raw materials used in giveh making are sourced locally, with some materials obtained from other areas:
- Cowhide is used in narrow strips for the sole and is sourced from nearby villages.
- Tallow is used for lubricating the strips or narrow pieces of hide to reduce friction.
- Cow horns are used at the tips and ends of the giveh , providing strength after drying.
- Twisted goat hair is used for stitching around the sole, to which the upper part is woven.

Materials Sourced from Other Areas

- Dyes for coloring the fabric of the giveh soles, usually sourced from Isfahan, Tehran, and Sanandaj.
- Thin cotton fabrics for making the soles.
- Gum tragacanth for stiffening and binding the layers of the soles.
- Twisted threads for weaving the upper part, sourced from various locations.
- Black and purple nails for the soles, also sourced from other areas.

The raw materials for weaving giveh must be processed first:
- The hide must be dried, sliced, and then treated with tallow.
- Cow horns need to be skinned, dried, slightly dampened, and then cut into pieces.
- Cotton fabric must be dyed, sliced, and then twisted into strips.
- Goat hair is sometimes twisted by women into thin ropes or sourced from nearby villages.
Giveh comes in various types based on the sole and upper design, with the best being the "Maleki Giveh ."

Maleki Giveh and Its Components

1. Upper Part: Made from cotton thread, this section is very strong and beautiful. Since cotton is used in its weaving, it has a cool and soft texture. This layer is always white.

2. Edge or Border: This part, located between the upper and sole, is very sturdy and made from thick leather. The leather used for giveh comes from various animals such as cows, buffaloes, camels, and other animals with thick and durable hides.

3. Sole: The bottom part of the giveh that comes into contact with the ground. It is made from tightly woven strong fabrics, providing high durability. The color of the sole is usually black or purple.
This type of giveh , known as "Maleki Giveh " is very luxurious and expensive, which is why rubber soles are sometimes used in its production.
Note that Maleki giveh does not have a left or right foot; both pieces are identical. Unfortunately, today, this type of footwear has received little attention, and only a few people show interest in purchasing giveh . It is hoped that in the future, more attention will be given to this type of shoe and footwear by relevant authorities, and more advertising will be done for this product. Here’s to that day!